We’ve seen it a million times in movies and TV shows: a guy breaks into any old car, ties a few wires together below the steering wheel and, bam, drives off without any issues. Unfortunately, that’s Hollywood Hot-wiring. Real life hot-wiring is a little different, so before we begin there’s a few important things to keep in mind.
The reason for hot-wiring is simple; to allow you to start a car without the need for a key. There are a few occasions when you might need to legitimately do this to your own car; maybe you’ve lost your keys or your lock tumbler has jammed. It’s important to remember that hot-wiring any car that doesn’t belong to you is highly illegal (even though that likely wouldn’t be a concern in a SHTF scenario).
Secondly, there are several methods to hot-wiring cars, but the one we’re going to focus on is the one which requires the least tools. We’re going to keep things as minimal as possible. It’s not possible to do this entire process with your hands alone, although it is achievable with just a knife and providing you’re also built like Rambo. The tools you’ll ideally need are: pliers, knife, screwdriver, strength. Also, here are the tools you will need when SHTF.
Lastly, you may have heard people mention that it’s impossible to hot-wire a car newer than around the mid-nineties. This isn’t strictly true. Cars up until around 1999 can be hot-wired with the standard method which is outlined below. After this, it doesn’t get impossible, just more difficult and will require knowledge specific to certain vehicle makes and models.
It is true that cars newer than around 2004 are largely impossible to hot-wire. Modern vehicles come with a chip in their key fobs which are required for the ignition to start at all – no amount of hot-wiring can bypass these. There are a multitude of other ways to commandeer such vehicles, but all require either technological hacks through the use of smartphones or laptops, or just straight up stealing the keys.
Related: 12 Essential Things You Can Scavenge from Cars when SHTF
But for now, let’s go back to basics.
We must understand what’s happening when we put a key in our ignition and turn it. With each turn, switches are being closed. Turning the key three times connects the three components needed to start a car: the battery, the ignition and the starter motor. Hot-wiring connects these three things without the need for a key.
So where are these wires located?
Step 1: Remove The Plastic Covering
This POV is from underneath the dash. This is where you need to start. See that little screw there? That’s connecting the plastic cover which conceals all of the wires below the steering column. This is what you first need to remove. Depending on your car, there can be up to four of those screws, and you’ll need a Phillips-head screwdriver to take them out. Alternatively, you can brute force your way through without a screwdriver, however will render you unable to repair the column if that’s your intention.
Related: How to Conceal Weapons in Your Vehicle
Step 2: Locate The Correct Wires
You will then be greeted with an overwhelming amount of wires. Don’t worry though, because it’s easy to work out what they’re for by looking in the direction they’re going.
You should be able to make out three separate bundles of wires; one going to the left, one going to the right and one going straight into the steering column itself. It’s the steering column bundle we need.
The bundle you need will be taped or attached together with either industrial tape a clip of some kind. There should be five wires in total in the bundle and they will all be connected to the ignition cylinder (the piece of metal you would normally put your key into).
Step 3: Prep The Wires
The easiest way to do the next part, in my experience, is to isolate that whole section. Pull out wires along with the ignition cylinder so that you can manipulate the wires more easily. For ease of instruction, this is how the one I removed from the above vehicle looks like:
Now, in a survivalist situation, you probably won’t have chance to check the car’s manual in order to determine which wire is which, so it would be useful to practice this step beforehand. The next stage is to locate the three wires required to start the vehicle: battery, ignition and starter.
The colors of these wires will vary depending on the make and model of the car. In my example, the wires I needed were blue, white and green, however, these were specific to my chosen vehicle. In general, red wires often indicate the battery and ignition wires, and started wires are usually brown/yellow. You can negate this issue, however, by pulling out the ignition cylinder with the wires. It will be the first three wires in the sequence which you need.
Step 4: Connect The Wires
Cut these three wires loose from the ignition cylinder and fray the protective rubber so you can expose the raw wire. Be very careful at this point. Do not touch the exposed wires with your bare hands.
You first need to attach the ignition wire and the battery wire to ‘light up’ the ignition (the same state the car is in when you turn your key twice; when you’re able to access your stereo but not able to drive). To do this, wrap the wires together and make sure they don’t come apart. Use protective gloves throughout (or a piece of clothing or cloth in a survival scenario). The dashboard should light up.
Then, hold the starter wire against the two battery wires until the engine kicks in. This will only take a second at most (imagine turning the ignition on with your key).
Immediately move the starter wire away and make sure it won’t come into contact with the battery wires while you’re driving. If necessary, use industrial tape around the edges of the wires to protect both yourself and the vehicle.
Related: Emergency Bag to Keep in Your Car in Case of an EMP
And we’re done. Rev the engine until it sounds healthy. The only thing to do in order to drive the vehicle normally is crack the steering lock, although this isn’t difficult. The lock can be broken by forcefully turning the wheel harshly in one direction until the lock-pins holding the wheel in place breaks.
So, the car is running, the steering wheel is free; what next? Well, it depends on your intentions. If you want to use the car again under normal circumstances then you will need some significant repair work done to the ignition cylinder, the battery wiring, the steering wheel lock and steering column.
If you’re planning on using the car regularly in its current iteration, you simply disconnect the two battery wires from touching each other in order to turn off the ignition. To restart it, re-attach the battery wires, then use the starter wire to fire it up.
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I can hot wire any car, no matter how new it is, getting past steering locks is more difficult, in a SHTF situation, sure look for older pick-up trucks ( Ford are easier) most old steering locks can be broken with some more leverage applied to the steering wheel, maybe with a tire iron or a tree branch.
You are full of shit, and a fucking liar.
I use to hot wire hundreds of cars when I’m my teens true they were from the 60ds and 70ds. But let me remind all you doubters there a new car stolen every 20 seconds in the US. You think they are all with keys?????? Think again
Ok boomer
I want to see you on a Mazda 3 2010 if you don’t have the key it doesn’t happen lol
I find it hard to believe that you can start any car. A lot of modern cars have security built into the ECU (engine control unit) so that you need to replace the ECU if you change keys. Sure you can start any car, but you need the replacement parts.
Why can’t you pull the microchip out from under the hood, fill the space with solder, and then hot wire it the old fashioned way?
Because that’s not how it works. There is no “microchip”.under the hood. There is a code programmed into a chip on the key. One time burn. When you activate the ignition a small antenna around the ignition lock emits a tiny low power signal that looks for the correct return resonance from the key. It’s passive. If that signal is absent, the fuel and ignition are shut off. It’s possible to duplicate keys on some vehicles prior to 2009, but you need a working key to do it, and specialized equipment which is not cheap, as well as a subscription to the relevant manufacturer who issues the key codes. This is why these keys cost around $200 typically. After 2010 most cars have to go to the dealer to get a key made, they don’t release any codes to third parties. If anybody out there is telling you they can somehow “hack” this system, they’re full of shit. In theory you could remove a PCM, lock, and antenna from a car you had keys for, and use it to start an identical model, but seriously, who does that?
All you need is a diode at the same resistance and wire it in and then you don’t need the chip all the chip is is a diode
Wrong, what you described is a 1/2 baked idea for making an ignition by pass for a passlock Government Motors 1995ish to 2005. BUT, it requires you to already have a working ignition system in good shape and to read the current setup from the BCM harness.
Even with the factory keys I have had trouble relearning the system which takes 30+ minutes sometimes, while the car is on a charger so it does not kill the battery .
Without a key FOB or factory scanner, you are not doing anything to hotwire a car like my wife’s 2013 Ford.
Then explain how they get stolen. Reports show new car stolen every 20 seconds. High tech technology is designed to keep the average two bit thug from taking your car not the experts. Expert car thieves know about the technology before it was installed in your car. You’ve heard that saying Look doors are there to keep innocent people out. I worked for a repo company back about 10 years ago. for more than 20 years before I got out of it there wasn’t a car I couldn’t get into and start without the key. And yes there where those with magnetic locks and computer chips in the key both if you know what your doing easy to get around. Luckily for people like you there aren’t to many people that know how to do that. that are flat out thieves. As far a repo men I’d say from experience 1 out of every 200 most would just haul it away. Oh and you don’t need to replace the ECU unit just work around it with practice takes about 4 to 5 minuets. Sorry trade secret.
They get stolen because people leave them running with the keys in them. Happens all the time, and I know several people it’s happened to. Also, there are a significant number of strongarm robberies (carjackings) that happen.
2002 Honda accord no key will u help me crank it plz
All you need is stick shift and it don’t matter if they start it or not, no one knows how to drive them anymore!
Many cars are stolen simply by towing them off. Because most stolen cars go to chop shops. They don’t have to be running at any time.
I knew a guy who stole cars…he was part of a team. They stole only mercedes at that time, bc the parts were worth more sold separately than the car itself… but a young kid had 2 new red mustangs stolen by a team in NY….lately. They use a semi…and get their calls from the security guard or guards that are in on it. This kid made the mistake of parking his new mustand in a space away from all other cars, bc he didn’t want it scratched up. The guards (at the mall)make the call. The guys in th semi pull up and jack up the entire car and load it into the semi. If the owner tries leaving the store, he’s delayed by the security guards until they get the all clear. They either strip it going down the highway or bring it to an interstate dealer…who cleans up the serial # and repaints it….
Hi,
You are correct, government motors went bankrupt in part to their lousy passlock security system late 1990s-2000s (cheap 24-28 gauge wires from ign cyl to radio). When the wires went bad and changed OHM the BCM (body control module) would lock the car out by killing the fuel pump. If the wires did not go bad, the ign cyl would and GM lost their lawsuits over $.05 in ignition cyl. part. Before that both Ford and Chevy lost their lawsuits on their TFI modules for no starts.
Worse, the BCM would fail itself. The only way to install a by pass is when the vehicle is already in good shape and you can install it using the factory learn system. I have installed the by pass under the dash and it is no treat because lack of wire length under the glove box on things such as Impalas.
If you have factory type scanners such as Next Generation, etc. you can reprogram from the driver’s seat, other wise forget it. I suppose you might be able to bypass it by rewiring the relay for the fuel pump, but, I was pretty sure the BCM was shutting down the CPu too.
I am a Ford mechanic, so, I mostly work on Fords, but, even older Jags have electronic shifter interlocks. Granted, the Jags can be defeated by a butter knife into the console, but, you will find later model Mercury such as 2004 a lot tougher then that.
All wishful thinking anyway, modern gasoline inside modern vehicles will be a no start after three months.
If you want to hotwire a vehicle it better be a 1993 or earlier Ford 7.3L diesel, IMHO, of course.
Most newer cars are stolen by either flatbed or by FOB scanners. I guarantee by wife’s 2013 C-Max is not being stolen by any hotwiring of the ign switch. You can do all you want with that, unless the CPu recognize the passive antenna in the FOB, it is not doing anything.
I would like to point out it looked like the article used a Nissan hardbody 1990s steering column? Basically a glorified John Deere ign. cyl. Not a very common thing.
If I was going to steal a Ford or Chevy like shown, I would just free up the steering column by drilling it out and use a by pass switch under the hood for the starter relay. Much quicker and doable.
From the mid 1990s forward you are not stealing a Ford or GM by yanking on the steering wheel to break the locking pawl. What you can do is jam it so hard, you can’t turn the steering wheel.
Dodge may be different, I do not know.
What about new corvettes? I have to get my car home but can’t afford or do I have time to order keys. Someone said there’s a theft shutoff did?
Can you hot wire a 2009 Lincoln MKZ by these instructions. Lost key. Thank You!
No. You have your MKZ towed to the Lincoln dealer with your proof of ownership, and they will make you two new keys for about $700. Keep one in a safe place and don’t be so careless next time.
If a SHTF happens man kind is all but lost you don’t have to wary about hot wiring a car. Just go to any car lot new or old. Money no good anymore, place is abandon, and cops aren’t protecting anymore their just trying to stay alive. Just go to the car lot find the key locker and take one. Your problem wont be getting a running car. Your problem will be getting fuel for it. Especially if it’s EMP attack fuel pumps wont work. Know your SHTF thing isn’t a big disaster after all you still have your car or that of someone that just lots all his marbles, and took off on foot. During the Katrina storm 350,000 cars where abandon. Many of them ended up under water. But the fact is there will be abandon cars all over the place from an EMP attack and not all were effected by it.. Well insulated cars. Older cars hidden and protected cars. Again problem will be fuel.
Hi Alan
my name is phillip, I was wondering I it would be possible to go to email me a more substantial diagram on how to start and stop the engine please, but the reason I need your help us to start my inboard boat engine. the problem I have I had a marine engineer to rewire my boat, but after paying him £3,900 he did,nt come back to complete the wiring on th dashboard. so he has left me with no ignition switch. and I don’t have a clue about wiring. I have someone who is interested in buying my boat, but they want,to see the engine running first before they make me an offer on the boat. and due to living with dementia I find it hard to take things in. and remember things. I do know about the safety issues involved with 12volt electrics. as how to approach the electrics in a safe way. I don’t have anyone else to help me out with this so I would be very grateful if you can send me a more substantial diagram please. the engine is a 2.5ltr Peugeot diesel engine. the wire colours are (purple) (white) (blue) (green) (black) (red) (yellow) these are coming from the engine harness into the wheelhouse. but I don’t know which wires to use to start the engine. I do know that black is negative and red is live. coming from the battery. but I don’t know which colours are for ignition start. ignition stop. and start. so I was hoping that you would have a good idea of this. this information would be so helpful to me. and help me get a buyer for my boat. as I have lost interest now due to the mess this guy has left me in. I have been completely disheartened and the only problem was that there as a burn Mark on the wire going to the bilge pump. but he ends up ripping all th wiring out in the wheelhouse. so any help as advice you can give to me would be truly welcomed.
hop to hear from you very soon in regards to my problem
my sincere regards
phillip
7276080102
Call or text me. Can I hire you? LBVS
I need to start my 2003 ford explorer lost the keys n already popped the ignition any advice?
In times of desperation, I might just walk up with my birdshead shotgun and say “get out” to the driver. No hotwire needed, plus chances are it will be a liberal driver…. since all of you base berserkers will be armed to the teeth and I wont be messing with you. Good times
You’d be surprised how many “liberals” are sitting on goldmines of ammo and have bug out plans. In a SHTF situation, I’ll assume everyone has a gun until I personally see them running down the street crying.
I started hearing around the mid-80s that the cars could no longer be hot-wired. I figured there had to be some way to do it. I’m printing this up and keeping it in my JIC (Just In Case) folder Thanks!
well you can always take out the ignition switch and turn it with your finger rather than a key
turtle, the first words of good sense come from you.
just gotta unlock the shifter and the steering column
Back in the early 70’s you could pop out the lock mechanism and remove the tumbler pins.Then anything inserted in the key slot would start the car. Did I just hear “JOY RIDE!” ?
I have a little easier way… with a hammer and a bigger flat headed screwdriver. Put screwdriver in key slot, beat the crap out of it. The key part will eventually break and pull apart, once the key portion is separated from the ignition switch, all you need them is the screw driver to start it, use the screw driver like a key.
You can also achieve this by disassembling to get to the components
..and if that doesn’t work just get a bigger hammer!
Does this work on new cars
Add to your description. Don’t cut all 3 wires at the same time, unless the battery has been disconnected. Motor could turn over unexpectedly causing soiling of the shorts. If starting multiple times a toggle switch and push button can be installed.
Would u happen to know Which wires would go to switch and which would go to the button?
you need a constant switch for the two wires that get twisted together (battery and ignition), and a momentary switch or button for the 3rd wire (starter) which is only used to momentarily turn over the engine. These switches need to be rated for power.
Who’s car is this ? How should we know ? The keys aren’t there….Hop In , Let’s GO !!!
In the old days the 70’s ford trucks had the ignition in the dash. You can simply buy lock cylinder and key at any auto parts store the reach under the dash,unplug the ignition harness and plug it into the one you bought.
Pre 78′ Ford Trucks & Broncos and pre 73′ Chevy And Gmc trucks,Blazers and Jimmy’s can be hot wired very easily by just pulling the wires loose from behind the ignition switch(that is behind the ignition lock low on the dash can be hot wired) On GM cars and trucks upto 78′ you can screw the end of a Morgan Knocker (ie dent puller) into the key slot , pop the lock cylinder out and use a flat blade screwdriver or similar flat object to start… Starting in 79′ GM started installing a hardened steelbolt through the lock cylto prevent easy thefts…screw driver
A good “shaved” key can get you into almost any pre 2000 car. The double sided keys work great. this is why pre 2000 toyota and Honda cars are the number 1 car stolen in America
You are correct , just as old keys get so worn they can be removed while the vehicle is running , at that point they begin to be used in a lot of ignition switches that use the same key type
As an automotive locksmith I can say that this article is not worth the time invested to write it, and publishing it is a disservice to all readers.
You will waste your time following the advice in the article, not to mention damaging any vehicle you attempt to start in this manner.
There are quick ways to bypass security on most vehicles, but they involve high technology tools to manipulate the lock cylinders and match transponders to most vehicles.
Yeah, I think an article saying “in order to steal any car you want, just have the the necessary high technology tools to manipulate lock cylinders and match transpondors” would have been much more useful.
Did you even read the article? If so, what’s your point exactly? The article even says that there are technological options in order to bypass some security measures, as well as specifically stating that the method explained will severely damage the vehicle. If you’re going to criticise, at least offer some counter advice which isn’t useless.
Hi Loz,
I think what Jim was getting at is that it’s not a skill that should be engaged in without the proper knowledge and tools, BECAUSE success would be marginal at best and dangerous at the least. Also, for the reasons I listed in my post below. I agree that Jim had some hard words by cutting straight to the chase quickly and lacked some of the sugar coating that is more easy to digest. There is a lot of this sort of thing promoted and flashed on the movie screens making it seem useful, but reality is so humbling I’m hopeful that readers will not entertain or focus on this risky nonessential survival skill. So again from an experience standpoint, I would prioritize this survival skill very low on SHTF to know list. Just trying to help
Check the subject of this site: SHTF. Who cares what the damage is, as long as it gets you moving!
On older vehicles you are incorrect sir.
Been there, done that back in the 70’s
remember this is a shtf time. don’t need to worry about any of that. if the doesn’t on this vehicle go to the next.
First, if we’re in a EMP situation, it’s not going to do any good anyway. Second, the advice and instruction being passed on here is only going to create the environment for some unknowing and witted young person getting in trouble trying to jack a vehicle and worse.
Let’s go for a SHTF reality check. If someone is going to vacate their car, there’s a 75% chance they’re going to leave their keys behind too. But consider the ability to navigate a roadway in a incognito state of operation. Your defensive and offensive tactical operational elbow room just got pared down to about 4 ft x 5 ft x 3.5 ft (the interior of a vehicle). Your encased movement in one will be alike that of a bad pacman game at best and provide any and all potential hostiles an excellent large target with limited movement and predictable routes. Vehicles are the easiest to stop, ambush and eradicate. Always look for means that provide stealth, minimal logistics and opportunities for over-watch and bounding. This may sound and seem crazy, but only lazy, untrained and naive preppers would risk security/OPSEC and/or clandestine movement. Sorry for the bubble pop, but when you live it you know what works and what doesn’t. Just trying to help.
Check this out tho…
My keys get stolen, assuming that I was using my (starterless) vehicle to store all the current car audio component repair projects I had at the time… my getting this car running is greater a need then my reflective lessons in life (plenty of those) it’s actually unobtainable because Im back from the junk yards, no steering columns with keys or ignition switches worth Frankensteinin to my column when I can order one in a couple of weeks…. bam!
+Mounted switch and toggle in dash (next to my audio remote switches and led ground button)
aftermarket fused system already in place.
+additional fuse for *the ign bypass*
=7.40$|time/ride|
The alternative…..
○Sunday is back to supporting my ppls lives day…
○rebuilt starter is 140.00$…. used is56-70.00$
○ign switch w/ blanks 96.70$
○80.00$custom cuts on the type key-to column installed in my car will need to be done by locksmith or ×new route C..taken to dealership to be modified.
“Supposedly” also I ain’t gothat 300.00 to fuck with at thi.s.hit.ting the fan right now wasting my time with you please stop adding shit…. why am I even talking still…..
OH YEAH ERY BODY STFUPLZ. Unless u contributing things other than opinions excluding contraindications and ty’s peace.. 3D
there is always someone who will find fault. and he may be right – where he is coming from- but the author apparently meant it to be a life or death situation and in that case knowing one wire from another would be pretty helpful
I know enough about how cars electrical systems work to get the motor started on an older car, but breaking the steering lock is a lot harder.
For educational purposes only it is possible to get a car moving without breaking anything. I had a 1988 toyota stolen a couple of times by the same thief. I got it back each time with no damage except it was full of discarded cigarettes and other rubbish. To my relief, the thief had managed to start my car without stripping any wires or breaking the steering lock. What he seemed to do was pick the lock as I found there were little scratches around the key hole. The car ignition is slightly more complicated than a padlock as it has tumblers going in two directions, but with a little practice, you can open a padlock in seconds.
This isn’t as helpful as other articles here. It is of limited utility even in an emergency. Start looking around next time you are on the road. How many mid 90’s cars do you see still on the road? It seemed like practically no cars in Southern CA were that old, maybe less so in other places.
Obama’s “Cash for Clunkers” boon doggle removed millions of older vehicles.
Good luck with the pushbutton start vehicles with no actual “key.”
There is no need to worry about “not touching the bare wires with your fingers.” It’s 12 volts.
On a lot of vehicles, it’s probably easier to work on the other end of the wires under the hood, on the starter solenoid (if you can get to it), than it is in the steering column.
12 volts at 300-500 amps will spot weld metal together, thus burn the hell out of your Fingers. Small car batteries are in the 300 amp range generally and large engines use up to 650 amps or so. It’s smart to keep bare skin away. I used to take my 67 Mustang for rides when my dad took my keys as a teen using a wire from the hot post on the battery to a post on the solenoid and use a screw driver to jump across two posts on the solenoid and voila! Engine running! Before someone balks at this, that year had no steering column lock, solenoid was mounted on fender near battery, and hoods had no lock that year either. So yes this is true and no I won’t tell you more details how to do this sorry.
This also worked on my 71 Mach 1.
It’s NOT the volts,….. it’s the AMPS in the battery!
Thinks for trying to help this gives me hope that i might get to safety….lol… while a zombie eats me with my mind on the car it want hurt so bad. I found the article useful for real. I remembered my husband came home in a truck that started with vice grips & the gears were in backwards & his shoe strings worked the windshield wipers. I couldn’t move the truck out of my way so i could get my car out . I had to wake him up he moved with no problem.
good info, but better ideas are in the comment section. don’t strip that much of the wire, it is unnecessary and leaves more battery power exposed to accidentally short to something else..maybe something undesirable..like ground.
Just strip back enough to make the needed connections..And if possible, wrap tape around the excess wire to prevent the aforementioned short condition.
Also, read the comments here, there are some smart folks there…(not me, so much).
Get a vehicle from the pre 80’s without steering or hood locks.4 ft. pc #12 wire and pair of pliers is all you need.
Why can’t you pull the microchip out from under the hood, fill the space with solder, and then hot wire it the old fashioned way?
As a car mechanic, I can tell that this article is outdated. Need to update. Because this tricks will not work on the modern car.
If the car has been abandoned,you have to ask yourself…”WHY”? More times than not,it will probably be out of gas,or…some type of mechanical damage/malfunction. Who will be watching your 6,while you are totally immersed with the process of attempting such a lengthy and non-guaranteed method?
The chances of any abandon vehicle being out of fuel is probably good. if the vehicle has been left, the keys are probably in it or close by. stick to the old stuff. new stuff is too techy and will blow your abilities to get anywhere. Me? I’m finding a horse. I’ve been doing aircraft, heavy equipt. and automotive for over 40 years. I suggest we all makes friends because it will be strength in numbers and you definitely want me on your team. what I bring to the interview is, “I’ll fix that”
Skip all this BS, the old .45 in the nose will get the keys everytime.
In a SHTF situation “what difference does it make?!”.
In the concept of making friends,it’s true,that there is safety in numbers. However,can you TRULY trust them? If they run out of food and you still have a stored cache…they will follow you,find your hidden cache and take it. If you attempt to stop them,the safety in numbers,is now against you and you will lose your cache as well as your life. NOBODY can be trusted,when it comes down to survival and food to eat…what would you do, to survive and put food on the table,for your own family?
Your missing the main part of the concept of a group. In order for it to work all items are shared. As a group you have better chances of finding or farming food. As a group you are all responsible for yourself and each other. If you horde food you deserve to be separated from the group which most likely would mean your death. If your not a Rambo type person. Guns, food, water and medical all belong to the group in order to protect it. As you said you may have some food stored somewhere, But someone in your group may have the fire power to protect everyone in the group. An other may have the medical knowledge to save you hurt kid. You may be able to keep your hidden supply of food for you and your family. But don’t expect the others to defend you when you really need it. And they most likely will find something to eat as a group. If you’ve been on this web page and looked around there are many of things to eat that we don’t today we even though things on our property that a present we get ride of many of them Calling them weeds. Someone you turned your back on knows this and helps the group out they are making it. Your supply weeks later is gone or near gone and your still not part of the group that kicked you out. So what did your hording do. gave you a short time of comfort now it’s gone or near gone health going down hill and ammo low, All this time the group learned to live of the land and ended up, make it. And you well good luck for being on your own. This may be a nice group and won’t take from you but others may take your hole supply the day after your kicked out of the group cause you couldn’t defend your self against 10 or more coming at you. Your right nobody can be trusted. But a group with proper leadership can keep a group under control or at least it can keep it respectable. And if you find yourself with morons hopefully you know how to take charge and make everyone work as one.
Abandoned cars on the road after SHTF such as in the top picture on this article will most likely you’ll find lots of them with the key still in the ignition. I would guess 1 out of every 7 or 8. They had to pull over because of vehicles ahead of them still needing to move. so got out started walking without even turning the motor off. So the major problem will most likely be gas. thus make sure you carry a hose with you so you can get gas out of the other vehicles. If time is on your side take all you can get fill everything you got with gas. cause up the road there may not be any.
So can I put in an push button start and over ride the ignition security without a key. And will I be able to remove the ignition switch without the key
Well on any GM car from 1990-2005 with the 3 coil packs you unplug the bypass wire from under the coil packs and the computer doesn’t tell them to shut off, then hit the solenoid wit the ol screwdriver and BOOM there ya go you may have to get the ignition to the on position with a screwdriver
Over all there’s no need to do any off those things to a car. if you have one running all others are nothing more than a gas tank. If you don’t have one running it will be easy to find one with key still in it cause the EMS destroyed their functionality. Many cars will be abandon and some with the keys still in the ignition for a hasty get away, and if in the city just look for a car lot they got keys for all those cars somewhere in the office. it’s not so much having a running car that is important but the fuel. After all you could have 10 cars that work but only one gallon of gas between all of them and with EMS attack the pumps don’t work. Also gas compared to other things haves a very short shelf life. You may think you found enough to last you the rest of your life but most likely in less than a year the rest will be no good for your car. There are things you can do to extend this but not for long term. So with an EMS attack if your lucky to have a running car prep to start walking anyway. You’ve seen movies with horses pulling cars, but why put such a heavy load on the horse get a wagon cause it’s lighter it’ll be much better for the horse for when you are caring a heavy load. Over all if an EMS hits us and we can’t get power back up and running within a few weeks. In a few months people will die in the millions for lack of supplies, and those remaining will be doomed to living like our grandparents did before the cell phone, refrigerator and car where around. Even worst no AC in the summer time. But the good news is smog problem will mostly go away. Lakes and rivers will slowly start to clear up from our waist. Within 10 to 15 years, those remaining will see the beginning of a beautiful rebirth of our planet.
Yeah, I’d really be worried about the Emergency Medical Services &/or the E.M.T.’s attack (wink, wink – nudge, nudge). You mean E.M.P. = Electro Magnetic Pulse.
What the hell does SHTF mean?
SHTF When “Shit Hits the Fan” means worst case possible
You also may here catastrophes referred to as:
W.R.O.L. = Without Rule Of Law
T.E.O.T.W.A.W.K.I. = The End Of The World As We Know It
Lots of good reading out there about these related & similar subjects. Good luck to us all!
Cool you got a car running after EMP attack. After a few day’s when other people figure out what has happened and your able to drive around, Now you are the number one target in the area. Cause you stand out like a rock of coal on a white background. Easy to stop with almost any type of road block. My suggestion leave it in the garage take the wheels off, and use it as a generator. Going out on the road after SHTF can easily turn into a death sentence. Even a horse can be grounds for someone to kill you. During an EMP the best thing to do is keep as low of a profile as you can. Cause there will be many hungry desperate people out there wanting what you have, with little to no concern for your health. So don’t worry about getting a car hot wired or working better and safer to walk. Remember you wont be the only one out there with a gun. And they don’t have to let you know their there until after you got a bullet in the back of the head.
maybe….but a car running in a garage? the fumes will kill you !
So now what does EMP stand for?
and isn’t it standard practice to first state what an acronym stands for before using it exclusively as the abbreviation? Like “When shit hits the fan (or SHTF) people will…” or “after an attack of EMP (or Enemy Military Police)”
How do i hot wire a 2000 magna? I have the keys but barrel will only turn to accessories.
I use to hit wire hundreds of cars when I’m my teens true they were from the 60ds and 70ds. But let me remind all you doubters there a new car stolen every 20 seconds in the US. You think they are all with keys?????? Think again
I’m in total agreement,with Allen. Unless you have the equipment,to build a manual pump… Gas,not cars,will be the high demand item…only second to food. Transportation is always available. Walk,run,ride a bike or canoe…bartering for goods and services(medical,repairs,knowledge,
etc.) will become the common currency,while water,food,gas,shelter,safety,weapons (forget about firearms…no ammo),metals(precious and non-precious) and tools…will be considered of higher value.
About fire arms there will be ammo and lots of it at first. I for one have 4 weapons each with over 200 rounds of ammo and I’m not really a preper. If any of that stuff really happen’s I wouldn’t leave the house without one. Also my brother doesn’t buy to much ammo he makes his own reloads. If it got down to SHIF I would pay attention to how he does it, and learn real fast. After a few months to a year a re loader would be worth his weight in gold. I can do shot gun shell but never bothered to do anything else. On this sight they even have a page on how to make home made gun powder. Guns during the time of such an action will be everywhere and people will learn to us them cold hardheartedly or die. Food, gas and just about everything you have would be worth killing you for or you killing to protect what you have. And if it did get that bad. Then the only survivors would be those that can pull the trigger without hesitation. Just hope it don’t get that bad. What would make it that bad, One thing a nation wide or world wide EMP would stop Food, water and everything else from reaching you. For months if not years. Thus what you have would be more valuable than your life. Another way a new virus that is so deadly and transferable that imports to your city would be stopped if it local you may get air drops but if it’s global there be no one to do those air drops. Can it be done Yes look at the almost mandatory flu shot given every year. What if intentionally they put a time delay virus in it. 90% of the US population would have it. and 80% of those would die. Why it was planted with a virus that when we find out about it they couldn’t make enough of the needed medication to undo no more than maybe 3 or 4 percent of the population. in time.Is it possible by accident not really but intentionally with a time delay vise of say 6 months to a year. why not. What the Aids verse takes up to about 6 years to notice that you have it. Rabies is hard to get you have to be bitten by something that has it but what if scientist experimenting with it to make a cure instead made it air born. It takes about it week for you to even know you have it. In the mean time it’s at every air port around the world in just 2 days. You will be put in a medical facilitate where they determine you have rabies but it’ll take a day or two for them to figure out it’s air born thus the hole hospital has it along with every school kid. That go home to their parents that go to work. Affects would look like your Zombie attack. Boy did I go off on a left wing here Sorry about that.
Yes your right there are other methods. Bow and Arrow, home made bombs. The thing is I want to stop them without fiscal contact. I may win the first 2 or 12 fights but eventually I will loss. I will use weapons for as long as I can. It may give a way my position. But I don’t intend to stay unless it’s my home base in which case I’m not alone and have a strong defensive position.In most combat fights I was in during my youth if you delete just less than 1/3 of your enemy they retreat. Point out here not always. But this is my playground I’m protected in and they are not. They have to expose themselves to get to me in my play ground, I don’t. Also when all is done and over with if those dead left behind had weapons they are mine now. Quick note here I was in the Marin Corp and at 500 meters I could shot you dead right in the head. Expert shot every year I went to the range. that was without a scope so imagine me with a scope. I’d be able to stay out of your range of small arms and take you all off one at a time being I’m not going to stay still. In Vietnam the best fighter the Vietnamese had was the shot one time one kill leave and shot again 2 or 3 hours later from somewhere else. Two shooters like that could take out 20 people in a day. And when SHIF these are most likely people without back up.
Avoid contact in any fight situation if possible Learn how to make home made bombs. Bow and arrows. and use your guns as long as you can. And as far as carring the equipment for making reloads in a combat world. Leave something else behind.
Greg…EMP stands for Electro Magnetic Pulse.
Thank you Field Medic
True…you can re-load your own ammo and make gunpowder. However,the materials would have to be pre-stocked(nowhere to purchase or find them) and if you have to bug out,will you be able to haul your machines with you(especially on foot or by bicycle)? That’s a lot of weight and bulk. I stick to non-firearm,weapons training as well as regular visits,to the range. In the long run…I can be stealthy and not give away my location,from the sounds of gunfire. Don’t rely on just one means of defense and hunting,weaponry. One is none and two,are one. ALWAYS have a backup and an alternative.
I’m an ex-combat medic. You’d have to spot me first and just what needed item would you choose to leave behind?
The item to leave behind would depend on what I was taking to start with. And as far as finding you. Not a problem I’m a poster I sit there for hours barley moving watching everything else move. Remember your on the move not me. I do this today at hunting just quietly sit there watching. And ex-combat medic on the move would be seen in my playground. But you being a ex-combat medic you may stand a better chance of survival by using your head and avoiding places that you know would be unsafe to move about in. But on the other hand with your skills you most likely would be welcomed if in a very small group or alone. And pointing out again My way of combat as long as possible is with no contact. Sure there would be times I’d have to. But most times no contact kill before they know you there. If in a big group that may change some with one or to contact people if they go down. all hell brakes loss. You know you can make some powerful bombs using sulfuric acid and sugar in a small pipe. can even set them of like a claymore boom, boom. boom. Over all my knowledge makes me not a nice person to come against. but a great one to have on your side. But be advised in situations like when SHTF I am very cold-hearted. Even today I don’t take much shit from most dumb as clowns passing themselves of as people. But those that know me stand toe to toe with me knowing we will make it. After all at what point do you shot someone for survival or shot for protection. There is a big difference here. One would be under world or nation wide chaos for which there may be no recovery at least within your life span. the other it’s just a temporary thing lasting week if not months. In one it’s survival in the other when all is said and done it’s murder. Now how do you tell the difference.
I would react and rely on my training and vast skills. I would only “kill or be killed”as I was trained. I became a medic to SAVE lives. Are you just going to sit there and shoot ANYONE,that you see? How would you even know my intentions or that I’m a medic?That is murder. .be safe,be prepared and be blessed. I know that I ALWAYS am. God bless.
Like I said I’m an observer I’d be watching and studying. And not interact with out knowing what’s out there. If other people there I’d be watching from a distance your interaction with them. I was trained to observer without being seen. If you interred my camp I’d know what type of person you are before you got there. If your someone that I found far or good welcome but if your someone I noticed as bad I wouldn’t give you a far chance. If I hadn’t made a decision yet you wouldn’t meet me. I still play war games with grand kids and others I have been known to be 3 feet from you and you don’t even know I’m there, Being a medic in the service I’m sure you know the type. I’m not or intend to be a murder but when SHTF all hell brakes loss you pick your friends with caution. And in a SHTF Armageddon there are only two types of people out there friends and enemy. NO HALF WAYS. Lot of people on out there and on this web page are what if, what if, what if. people that is if it really happen would fall apart even with all the preps they have done. And many would be or get killed doing dumb as shit things they think is right. The truth is in a total world SHTH life as you know it wouldn’t be there anymore. Can you live of the land without meat or a weapon. As a medic it was your job to save lives. But if needed do you know not believe or think you can, but do you know. that you could you take a live to save yourself or your group. You see I don’t play with maybe’s or assumptions but know how to do what needs done.
Whatever. I was attached to a recon unit for several months. I KNOW more than you think and am brave,and skilled enough to go hand to hand,if necessary. Live in your scared world…just observing and not interacting. Loneliness will get to you. Good luck out there.
You got present life mixed with SHTF life Those where acts for ultimate survival in real SHTF Stuff. Not today or something like a storm or another 911. You seem to be very narrow in your assumption of what is being said here. I was talking about being in a world like movie THE BAD BATCH,or THE ROAD that type of world. But not as a movie but real. Observing is for strangers and the unknown, as you was taught in your recon unit.
Thanks but that’s a lot of work. Cars of that age can easily be started with a large flathead screwdriver and a hammer. Bust out the ignition with one well placed hit and turn it over.
To ‘circumvent’ most, but not all, ‘hot wire’ problems for all nut the newest cars, go to your nearest auto parts store and get you a ‘dent puller’. This is designed to screw into a dent and using the attached weight will pull out many types of ‘dents’. Screw this into the ignition switch where the key would go and use the weight to break out and remove the ignition switch. remove the lock portion of the ignition switch and replace the key portion back into the cylinder and now you should be able to turn the switch and start the car like normal and this will also unlock the steering wheel like a key would.
I am solely learning for safety reasons. With all these kidnapping and sex trafficking cases i’d like to be ready to escape since going to the police would not be my first choice as many help sex traffickers. So with that being said, Id be safer trying to only hot wire cars 2005 and down?
lol all u have to do is take a drill put it in the top of key hole drill away then remove it for lock pins to fall in then insert screwdriver and turn key thats the easiest way
What about ford explorer 2003?
You can’t hotwire a 2003, needs a security key.
I can’t see this working for any car built after 2010.
I hot wired the space shuttle and flew it around for a couple hours till it ran out of gas. I left it sitting on a parking lot in the Himalayas.
Ok so I have a 2006 Chevy equinox ugh. Well my ex stole my keys and I hot wired it but now it want turn starter over. It won’t fire ignition comes on and all. I knocked ignition out down to the white thing you turn over ignition. And I wired the two battery wires together then u attach the ignition wire it turns on then I hit it with starter wire and nothing. I checked relays and fuses but nothing. Can I run a toggle switch on starter?