Preppers are interested in what will work and why. This article will deal with vehicles that can survive an EMP attack.
First I will define my own categories of SHTF vehicles, and then recommend a manufacturer and model of vehicles that I believe can handle an EMP.
After that, I will delve into some of the “Why’s” in a bit more detail.
Vehicle Categories
This is just my way of thinking about the purpose of SHTF-EMP vehicles. I define the categories according to what your needs are, and which vehicles will suit those needs best.
My categories are:
- General Workhorses
- Long Distance People Movers
- Specialist Climbers
- Speed Freaks
- Hardcore Tactical SHTF Vehicles
General Workhorses
This is the kind of vehicle you want to be parked outside your house with the keys on the kitchen table. It’s ready all the time and is a good general-purpose vehicle.
Related: The Bug-Out Vehicle That Can Literally Take You Anywhere You Want
They can handle passengers and large loads with ease. Spares are readily available and anyone with some mechanical sense can fix it if needed.
-> Ford F100 & F250 Range of Pick-Up Trucks
These iconic trucks are available in a wide range of models and variants. Choose a model before 1979. You should have no trouble finding a diesel.
There are thousands of these old work-horses rusting away in backyards and barns, so scavenging for parts will be an option in the long run.
If you need some extra space, get a crew-cab or double-cab model so you can transport people along with goods. Putting a camper shell on the back will instantly turn this into a home away from home.
Long Distance People Movers
Vehicles in this category are intended to move people and their belongings long distances in relative comfort. They are mostly available in gasoline models and are not economical when it comes to fuel consumption.
I have opted for those that are widely regarded as reliable and easy to fix.
One of the criteria is the ability to transport at least 6 people, along with their luggage, food provisions and camping equipment.
-> Ford Country Squire and Chevrolet Impala Station Wagons
I once listened to an interview with an ex-CIA field operative. One of the questions posed to him was: What kind of car do you have standing in your garage?
Low-and-behold, there was a 1978 Chevy Impala. The presenter made fun, asking the question: “Why would you have such an old piece of sh@t?”
Clearly, the interviewer knows very little about going off-grid. And the ex-CIA guy, well he definitely knows a thing or two.
Once again, opt for models before 1980.
Related: Top 10 Vehicles for Your EMP Survival
These vehicles were built back in the day when cars were solid steel and highly reliable. They are on the heavy side and don’t handle as nimble around corners or inside parking lots as their modern counterparts. They can handle dirt roads and most backcountry tracks but are not suited to off-roading or high-speed get-aways.
Specialist Climbers
Vehicles in this category are made to go up the side’s of mountains, climb over rocks and maneuver in tight spots
To accomplish this, they need a short wheelbase, high ground clearance, steep approach angle and low center of gravity.
Because soft suspensions are a drawback on steep slopes, climbers have hard suspensions. Making them uncomfortable on dirt roads and they tend to get jumpy when you are going fast.
They are not designed to carry a lot of people or goods.
-> Jeep CJ 5, Landrover Defender 90, and Landcruiser FJ 40
The Jeep CJ 5 and Toyota FJ 40 are both based on the design of the legendary Willy’s Jeep design. If you live in a mountainous area and want a top-rated climber, this is your best option.
They have a short wheelbase and handle superbly in tight conditions.
The Landrover Defender 90 came onto the market in 1983. Before that, they were only known as the Landrover 90. Once again, opt for the older models.
Diesel models shouldn’t be hard to come by, but the Landrovers were not as popular in the US as elsewhere in the world, so they are somewhat of a rarity.
Fitted with a hard shell and electric winch, you could cut over almost any terrain and would not need to follow roads to get to your destination. But be ready for a bumpy ride.
Related: Alternative Bug-Out Vehicles
Speed Freaks
Cars that are built for speed have features that don’t always make for good “rough terrain” driving. First of all, the suspension is very hard. This is good for tarmac at high speeds but can be deadly on dirt roads at high speeds.
The models mentioned below are for high-speed tarmac driving. In SHTF conditions, this could be difficult, given possible road congestion and general chaos. But should you have “the need for speed”, the following models will have you covered?
-> Dodge Charger & Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
Ever since Buddy Parker reached 200mph in his Dodge Charger in the 1970s, have these legendary muscle cars been one of my personal favorites.
You don’t need to go that fast, in fact, I would recommend against it. But, if you foresee that you will need speed in an SHTF world and want to drive a car that won’t be stopped by an EMP, this is the perfect high-speed vehicle.
Another great option for reliable speed from a purely mechanical muscle car is the Firebird Trans Am. A favorite in movies and on cop shows, the Trans Am defined a generation.
This is the best option if you want to look seriously cool while outrunning the bad guys.
Harcore Tactical Vehicles
This category is for those who want to invest in specialist SHTF vehicles. My suggestion may come as a surprise, but I do believe the Mil-Spec these models carry indicates that some thought has gone into all aspects of these vehicles, from suspension strength to serviceability to the battery placement under the hood.
When seconds count or the ability to handle unexpected hard knocks could mean the difference between life and death, vehicles that have been purpose-built for tough situations may just carry the day.
-> Chevrolet K30 (D30) CUCV
This is my favorite. Also known as the Chevrolet Military Truck. The 1970’s models were issues with some big and powerful diesel engines.
These are ultra-reliable vehicles and have been manufactured for military forces the world over.
In my opinion, you can’t go wrong with one of these. They are, however, not small and nimble, and are decidedly heavy on fuel compared to some other models.
Related: Top 5 Awesome Bug Out Vehicles You Can Actually Afford
General Motors have been manufacturing these for the military and there are many in service, particularly amongst the European Forces.
By the time you are ready to kit one of these out for SHTF-EMP readiness, your journey to prepping-level “Black-Belt”, is complete.
Criteria for Models Chosen
Concerning the models outlined above, my recommendation has consistently been for models built before the 1980s. That’s because cars that have zero electronics will be best. This includes most MUCH older vehicles.
Some commentators say that you could buy any car built before 1980. I don’t know all cars and models made before the 1980’s so I can’t confirm that. But, for peace of mind, I would recommend the following:
- No electronic ignitions.
- No electronic fuel injection of fuel pump systems.
- No electronic control components for windows, turning signals or lights.
- No electronic components on your alternator or battery charging system.
I am sure that there are many vehicles built after 1980 that would also meet these criteria. The best would be to ask. You want NO electronics anywhere! But what does this mean?
Electronics VS Electrical
Since electronics are more vulnerable than the electrical system, I think it might be useful to differentiate between the two types of systems.
Electrical devices use electricity as an energy source. For instance:
- Electrical current flows through the filament and the light glows.
- Electrical current flows through the windings of a motor and it turns.
- For these devices, flowing electricity causes them to work.
Electronic devices manipulate electricity through the use of switches. Computer CPU’s are good examples, but so are basic IC’s, or integrated circuits. They can be very simple and run logic controllers on coffee machines, where they perform 10 operations based on a few inputs.
All electronic and electrical devices can be affected by an EMP. But the electrical system will recover immediately. Whereas electronics can be wiped out and be rendered useless due to damage to the switches.
Related: What To Add In An EMP Survival Kit
Diesel VS Gasoline
Even though I am a gasoline man myself, I consider diesel engine’s to be better for SHTF and consequently EMP strikes.
This is because diesel motors have the least electrical requirements. Apart from the glow plugs that heat the diesel before injection, the entire system is mechanical, including the diesel pump.
Gasoline motors have more extensive electrical requirements, ranging from electric fuel pumps to electric ignition systems for creating sparks to ignite the fuel.
The Final Word
So there you have it guys. My recommendations and why I think they are good options. I know many older vehicles have issues like parts availability and general wear and tear that eventually takes its toll.
But this article aims to equip you with a vehicle that could take an EMP hit while driving and continue on unphased. In the case of some of the gasoline models, this may require a restart, but at least you won’t be stranded.
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lol…..
yeah relibable isn’t entirely true and its once again the rose colored glasses of some boomer.
The cucv is a decent option and considering the writer has no idea about cars and just made up this entire article. Its the same 6.2 and turbo 400 found in the humvee . However expect to fork out a small fortune to either buy one in good shape or rebuild one to a fuctioning standard.
the rest is a dumb joke and the 2nd gen trans am would be terrible options ….they handle like shit….they have terrible brakes and shitty engine that a mondern ls makes more power and better gas milage.
Its the end of the world and you need to hit the drag strips still ?
Good luck you want something old and only a handful even know how to rebuild a carberator. Let alone tune the engine and set it up.
?Perhaps you should enlighten us with your top 5 or 10 ?♂️
Most common truck’s on the road (chevy and Dodge) both easy to fix and still use pushrod engines.
Every car parts store has the parts in stock for most of the 95 to 15 model GM/Dodge trucks. The LS Engines are bulletproof and the 4l80e series transmission is pretty solid.
You need a little sports car to head to the drag races in the end times… then i have no idea why you would need it.. just get a ATV or UTV then
but go ahead and buy a rusty car from the 70’s and shell out 20grand to the shop to get it up to speed for you.
It’s not about the truth. It’s about being an asshole while telling it. You should probably grow up because I’m sure you’re not the tough guy you think you are here.
Wow, what a dick response! Maybe you should start your own website so that you can highlight your arrogance even more.
don’t like the truth sorry guess you and the children can find that safe space.
I have a ’79 GMC “Heavy Half” (3/4 ton frame and drive train) that I pulled the HEI ignition system out of and put a regular distributor in. Boom! No electronic parts anymore. I keep two spare tuneup kits in the glove box. The engine is a 350 cu in “crate” engine with the turbo 400, although I am looking for the 292 straight six to rebuild and bolt up to the turbo 400. A teensy bit better fuel mileage, and a little more low end torque. It is what I had back in 1972 and loved so much I drove it until the doors literally fell off on both sides (my aching feet!). Flat forest green and flat chocolate black bumpers really blends in most of the year down here in Alabama. No, I am originally from the “rust belt”, but retired here after 23 years as a Navy Radio Operator 1st. Didn’t want nothing to do with those liberal gun grabbers and AOC lovers. I live in a home built the same year I was born, bought it cheap on 15 unimproved acres, have a whole closet turned into a Faraday Cage. I have spare computers for my (Bought New) 1990 Ford Ranger packed away at the back, bottom of my Cage closet. I put “lockers” on both axles in both trucks, as two driving is better than one. Yeah, they can get a little squirrely on really wet roads, but I anticipated that. The Ford is still white, but a couple hours with zinc chromate primer and the remaining green paint from the GMC will change that. The crappier the paint job, the better for not being spotted or stolen. I have all band transceivers for both and the home (AM/FM/LW/HF SSB with the multiband antennas) U.K. surplus cause the U.S. stuff isn’t surplused out anymore, they are junked for scrap value now. I drive them both to keep the tires from dry rotting and the drive trains limber. You just can’t leave a truck or car just sit, then expect them to get you out in a hurry. All the guys here in my area are copying me, but they like the big Fords surplused out of Rucker and Benning. They have high power GMRS radios (50watts) available from Radioddity and I have three of them too in my Cage. Mine are programmable with 100 memory channels, so I can add extra frequencies when and where I need them. All electronics are in the Cage until TSHTF, but the mounts and antennas are on the trucks. Any EMP events are expected and planned for. I don’t know how useful I will be, being in my 60’s, but I can still drive and shoot. Best Regards to you all!
> I have spare computers for my (Bought New) 1990 Ford Ranger
FWIW: If you have a 4.0L, you can convert it to carb. and vac. dist.. If you have a 2.9L, you can swap it out for a 2.8L. therangerstation is a good resource.
For John Brown,
Why swap out a perfectly KNOWN engine for an unknown engine? Whatever you find these days may be perfect, or it may be a horror that burns oil, has low compression and the mpg is just a dream? I have 236,000 plus on that engine, and it is just as snappy and runs like a scalded dog. Regular maintenance has kept that engine/tranny in very good shape and it still runs as just out of the dealer’s showroom floor. 25 mpg in town, and 28 on the whizz way. Why? It has the fiberglass box which saves a LOT of weight and doesn’t rust. I do have a work top on the box which adds some weight, but not as much as the steel box would add from those days. I love a 5 speed manual, and the truck still climbs a hill in fourth gear. What else could you ask for? It has the 2.5 L four EFI. I do periodic preventative maintenance twice a year, cleaning, adjusting the serpentine belt, just did the timing belt and water pump change last Spring (3rd time since I bought it), and am thinking of installing the timing chain kit that is offered through Precision Truck Parts so I never have to worry about that for the rest of my life.
So, why change the motor? It is a known engine to me that has not given me any trouble. I have gone to the expense of buying both computers, and EMP proofing them by wrapping them in bubble wrap insulation, copper foil, more plastic insulation, copper screen and they are in my Faraday Closet along with the radio equipment and other electronics. I even have a 200 watt amplifier VHF/UHF capable, plus a 3,000 watt HF amp in there, too. All the spare 18650 LiFePo batteries and solar panels are in there, too. I believe that I am protected from the most massive EMP the Sun or Man can throw at us. Anything worth doing is worth overdoing. I have food, water, comm gear, and go bags in each truck in faraday cages bolted to the deck and locked, and those locks were not the cheap kind. Food for 5 days and some ordinance, too. I have heavy brush guards on the front in case a deer or one or more of the most dangerous “game” in the world gets in the way. What else can be done that I haven’t thought of? Ground clearance – lots of that. Tires that can go anywhere are already on them both. Winches on them both, but the Ford’s winch can be on the trailer box hitch when I need it. It dragged the Ford up a stream bank without strain. The GMC’s winch is permanently mounted just below the frame with the fairlead mounted through the bumper. This is not junk mounted just to look pretty. I thought and saved a long time before I did anything to either truck. If you know how to drive rough country, you do not need 4wd, and I don’t have or need it. Thanks for the info, though. If I ever come across those engines and the Ford’s engine has bit the dust finally, I will take a chance on one of them. A V-6 WILL fit in there with some rearranging, I’ve seen them in later models. The engine in a later Ford Ranger will not fit my model due to the steering column being in the way. This may be too much for my abilities. I wonder if a 6 cylinder boxer engine would fit? Thank you!
The article is correct in what it is saying. Now I might not agree on the actual vehicles. But you all go ahead and buy your newer model cars that have an electronic ignition and fuel system. Just wish I could find a pre 80’s car to fix up. LOL I am one of the few still around that can rebuild one. But I do not have a shop and do not do work on other people cars. I am also a senior Electronics tech.
You have to understand an emp. EMP stands for Electro Motive Force. The force of an EMP’s varies in strength over distance from the source and from the amount generated by what ever created the EMP be it a bomb, transformer or ect.. The pre 90 electronics were heavier made then the newer electronics so they will stand a little more then the newer stuff.
If it is a bomb from space that generates this EMP it will be strong enough to take out your electronics if your within the area effected by it. The farther away from zero(or the bomb) you are the less the EMP force will be. So at the outer edge of this zone your vehicles might survive but at the center they will not and some just light weigh electrical devices will also die(Such as small relays with very light windings).
Now I am not planning on leaving my home area so a vehicle would just be something to use for utility purposes. As to people coming to take what I have they best expect a fight.
The problem most people have is they are afraid of death itself. Well I am a Christian but this is not the reason I am not afraid. The reason is simple there is only one thing about dyeing that we don’t know and that is if there is an after life or not. If there is no after life then why be afraid(it is over)? If there is an afterlife(then if you don’t believe in god then I guess you should be afraid) but you still exist so why fear?.
I plan on living as long as I can as to fighting if you can got to war and still go to heaven then you can fight for survival and go to heaven. But thing is I will help anyone I can if that means extra work getting food so be it.
I’ll stick with my Humvee, diesel and mil spec. Less electrical and more dumb dumb resistant. Cheap.
You bought a surplus humvee?
My all time favorite ride was my 1st pickup, 1966 Ford F250 Camper Special, 3/4 ton with 16″ suicide rims, 351 Cleveland V8 with three on the tree. By 1970 all new American made cars and trucks were garbage, made to wear out before 100,000 miles, that’s why it’s hard to find them. Hot Rodders love them so they’re also expensive, but it’s a lot easier to find parts these days than it used to be, just Google what you want, beats heck out of going to junk yards.
Might work if the sound insulation is in between the layers of metal. See, you have to insulate in between layers of metal to keep the pulse from being in contact with the interior with either bubble wrap, sheet plastic, or even thick cardboard with no seams or holes allowing the electrostatic charge inside your Faraday Cage. Use a conductive glue in between the seams wiith either copper or aluminum wool IN the seam, you can find both if you look online. You will not need need much.
Really, the best EMP protection is turning a metal trash can (with lid) into a Faraday Cage. Line the inside with overlapping cork board or thick cardboard including the inside of the lid. Wrap your stuff with bubble wrap and pack carefully into the can so that nothing touches the cardboard or cork inner lining except the bubble wrap and you will be double insulated. Using that conductive glue again, glue steel wool on the inside ring of the lid and when full, push the lid down firmly onto the can. Again, if you use LiPo batteries with the circuitry in each battery to keep them from being drained too far, or being charged too long, put them in, too. Normal flooded, SLA, Gel, and AGM batteries not connected to anything can survive outside the can. If they are connected to anything, they are toast. Same goes for alkaline, carbon zinc batteries. If there is time for a warning (doubtful at best), pull the negative cable off your battery, unconnected, your alternator or generator will probably survive untouched along with the rest of your non computerized electrical system. For the time you will need your truck, the D’Arsonvil movements in the gauges may melt, but you CAN operate your vehicle without them. Designs for Faraday Cages abound on YouTube, so look for construction details there. (Random thought time) Surplus military trucks are mostly diesel, EMP proofed by their very nature. I had a Korean war vintage M131A1 jeep in pristine condition that I wish I still had, no electronics at all,there. I stupidly sold it for 10 grand (at the time, the money was a blessing). But surplus military vehicles can still be found because of the change to MRAP type trucks and every service dumping the older trucks. Watch for surplus sales by getting on the list (easy to do). Almost 4AM here, time for bed. Everybody enjoy the Christmas holiday and remember who it is for – Jesus Christ!
so…. lets start with the fact that the MPAPS are no longer a thing and they moved on with them. they sold them off to the police stations to be used against americans and other host nations got them. (kinda of big piles of garbage)
The standard FMTV series is the work horse and that thing is defiently not emp proofed by far. The rest of the rolling stock or ground equipment isnt either most of the newer models went to a pretty heavy electronic control. None of its emp proofed and its mostly due to the issue that the emp isn’t likely to happen or effect the car/ trucks
as far good used surplus….. the stuff isn’t cheap a 900 series 5 ton would run almost 20 grand to have a decent clean running model. A detroit m1070 for whatever reason you wanted that ….. is silly and gets 2 mpg
the cheap surplus days are gone…..
I appreciate the information. It is helpful and concise.
EMP? It’s a possibility, of course, but my guess is if SHTF in an end of the world as we know it kind of way, it will be something few ever thought of and fewer were prepared for. Picking one scenario like an EMP and spending a fortune to negate it just seems short-sighted to me. I prefer a lifestyle shift in general, with reduced dependencies, including electronics. Give me water, food to eat, a safe place to stay warm or get out of the heat and I’ll be prepared or surprised like everyone else.
I agree
1. divide the populace
2. create mandates that are enforced by many
3. allow inflation to run rampant, restrict economy, restrict food distribution, restrict fuels, then restrict movements
4. sit back and wait as everyone picks sides, based on ideologies
If you’re outside of the country you need only wait as those in power restrict the average person and the average people rise up against those that suppress them
sit back and wait than walk in with an overwhelming force and it’s all over. You don’t destroy what you will need to rebuild your new empire.
Gary: well said. It is propaganda central in DC. niio
DOES A 1997 TOYOTA RAV 4- 4 DOOR STICK SHIFT HAVE ANY CHIPS IN IT????
I’m sure it does. My 1982 Datsun SX had an electronic ignition chip in it. If the RAV 4 isn’t carburated, it will have at least that.
Yes
I have two VW RABBIT PICKUP TRUCKS, Diesel, surprised they were not on the list, but then they are hard to find.
Don’t be surprised. If my old 72 V.W. hatch back is any indication, it had to maintain 28 psi. fuel pressure to the injectors. That was done with a high pressure, electric fuel pump. Besides that, people need to consider alternators, points, starter solenoids and even voltage regulators. The weak links in even the older vehicles. But what the hell is this all about anyway? The basics of survival are what’s important here. If we need to travel, we have feet. You’d be surprised how much ground a determined person can cover in a day.
Much of this depends on when and where the event takes place. If in the dead of winter (pardon the double entendre) other than a snow cat you may not be going anyplace. High wind, deep snow and below zero weather would kill off many thousands of people. To many unknowns here to cover everything and to plan for everything. We will do what people like us have always done, plan for the worst and hope for the best.
God Bless you and God Bless America. What’s left of it.
No sir, Points, alternators, (without built-in electronics) regulators and starter solenoids are high power devices and will not be damaged by an Electromagnetic Pulse. That includes batteries as a battery acts like a surge protector what is damaged is sensitive electronics think Integrated circuits.
I am only referring to the first component of a Pulse,
as the other parts are what destroys the power grid.
Certainly a Porsche 914 1974 will do the trick, could be fast, off road,no electronics, two trunks, just two people carrier, almost unbreakable…I forgot mention the VW bug 1973 more roomy and more economic…?
lol ….. yeah “that screams reliability” you have no off road ablity and stuck to black top…
In any case, a vehicle owner had better be a fair mechanic. Most kids used to be motorheads. Today, a lot of them can’t change a flat without an instructor telling them what to do. niio
How about some up to date ways to emp proof existing vehicles that the average working mutt can do affordably????
The horse; wagon pulled by horse, ox, goat, even large dogs; sled as well; bicycle, are the best bet in a post emp world. The energy level of an electro magnetic pulse the pulse determines what level of damage will occur. A static spark will damage micro circuits, computers…the controls on most vehicles since the late 70’s. A high energy pulse will fry most equipment with wiring. Ignition coils, resistance wires (used on older fords), and electric connections soldered to early circuits. Starters and generators later alternators and voltage regulators all can be damaged by a large pulse. The Nevada test site proves this. The Carrington event was a large pulse. Fires were common, as well as damage to early communication equipment. Just saying it’s very likely that many of us living now will see this unfold.
Each time Hitler tested the nuclear bomb on Rugen Island, 200 miles away, phone service in Berlin quit for a few weeks. It would be cool, for me, anyway, to go back to the horse and buggy for a while. That’s how I was raised. It wouldn’t last, of course. We’ve some of the best researchers in the world. Steampunk, PC computers, then back to the moon in less than a generation. niio
If the battery of the vehicle is not hooked up at time of EMP, will the rest of the components fry? Forgive my lack of knowledge…
The 1949 Carrington event ony screwed up telegraph wires and batteries, the poles stayed in place and only one wire and an earth ground was needed to get it up and running again. The solar pulse in Canada and NNY really burned out some transformers, but the Canadians had replacements in storage. NNY took weeks longer to be completely recovered with the help of transformers on trailers from many electric companies in many States brought to sites damaged by the pulse. And I agree with others, the vehicles will only last until you reach your bugout location, or run out of fuel on the way. After that, it is Shank’s mare until you find your location and hope that somebody isn’t already there.
As Fred has pointed out, it’s long lengths of unshielded wire that will cause problems from the EMP. They can get in excess of 10,000 volts/meter differential. This is what is likely to take the grid down since there still isn’t a lot of protection on the transmission lines, especially those going to the houses unless they’re buried underground. The same is valid for vehicles. Orientation to the EMP blast makes a difference, too (not that you can plan for it necessarily), in that one vehicle might be fine while another parked perpendicular to it might be fried. Likewise, it can be the wiring going to the electronics that will fry them rather than what’s inside them but could be both.
A building will attenuate the EMP some…a metal one (in theory) better than a wood frame building. Likewise, the metal in a car can, again in theory, attenuate the pulse.
Faraday cages can be tricky to build right…any gaps can let the pulse through and possibly even act as a focal point making the pulse worse inside the cage than outside.
Build a faraday cage in your garage.
Have a spare engine computer wrapped in foil stored in your vehicle. You will also need to have it paired to your key.
So that means you will install it and have a shop pair it so you might want to drive the car to your favorite mechanic also call first to make sure they can do it the more of the wiring harness you can wrap with foil MAY give you added benefit.
The possibility of an EMP occurring seems a bit of a stretch to me but I was wondering, if auto manufacturers were to line the engine compartment with an aluminum covering on the insulation on the hood, would that be enough to absorb an EMP? We’re not talking anything like a thick metal piece in the engine compartment. It could be something like tin foil lining the whole engine compartment. Seems to me that may work!
emp requires mu-metal, a faraday cage. I remember this from the Navy. Steel. And a quick search out of curiousity, Tons of options. The metal used on one says “Composition: Co69, Fe4, Mo4, Nb1, Si16, B7 “
Look into EMP Shield for protection of home and vehicles. Simple and secure.
considering most modern cars have shielding in the wiring…. and your relics didn’t even have relays……..
The voltage regulators did.
I also have a 1981 VW diesel pickup with a rusted frame, but my workhorse is a 1984 Chevy Suburban 6.2 diesel. All mechanical except the starter motor.
While I enjoyed the information in this article there is one thing that needs to be mentioned. Back in the late 30s and early 40s there were several fuel vapor carburetors that were created, They were based on the fact that when using gasoline it is the vapors that are burned. Something to keep in mind is that the vehicles back then were mostly steel and iron. Even with that there were several carburetors that were able to get 100 mpg. With current vehicles being much lighter vehicles should be able to get more.
I did an experiment a couple of years ago using a generator connected to my motor home. I ran the generator with a homemade fuel vapor system. While running the air conditioner and internal power (lights, microwave, ext.) I was able to run the generator for 18 hours on 5 gallons of gasoline.
Just something to consider.
Understand that even modern vehicles are built to withstand rough conditions—high temperatures under the hood where some equipment already puts out electrical noise. I can’t find it at the moment, but about a decade ago, they tested a few modern cars with EMP, and most of them passed. I’m not sure about the newest with all their heavy-duty computers controlling everything. However, the basic electronic ignition systems will likely continue working because they were designed to work in a hostile environment.
Some cars with all the snazzy computers are very vulnerable to any disturbance. My 20 year old Volvo has a radio that changes stations if I drive next to a semi truck. It will also change stations in areas with a lot of leaky signals in business areas. Even my clock changes on it’s own when around certain leaky signals. I would imagine that in an EMP, the whole dashboard will start spinning in circles.
That’s more because those signals are more powerful than what you’re tuned to, and so they overload the car receiver. A set of lines going over the interstate near me does that to any vehicle whenever we drive under them while tuned to AM stations.
Good information, much thanks. To the spoiler who said he hasn’t the brains to rebuild a carburetor, maybe he should buy one at the junkyard and practice. Growing up on the farm, we used horses, but Dad bought a small Caterpillar for junk price. He never worked on anything like that, but the library was very helpful, as was the company. It took all winter to learn and to work. In spring, he had it back together and she started! To the best of my knowledge, she’s still running. Not because Dad was a great mechanic–this was the first time he tried. It’s running because people learned how-to, not griped and complained. Like any other genius, motorheads are made, not born. niio
I was married to a mechanic for years. I used to rebuild the carburetors for him. It is so darn easy! I learned so much about cars those 12 years, he always wanted my help. To this day, I can at least figure out what is wrong when I have problems. The older trucks are easier to work on than the new ones. Wish I still had my old F150!!
Karen: Yeah, I had a 55 International and other older trucks, a Ford Fairlane wagon. All good vehicles, all easy as pie to work on. Like I said, I wasn’t raised by a mechanic, but Dad taught us how to do anything by learning and the hands-on. niio
your lack of reading comprehension is astounding .
The majority …… congrats and now you get the joy of tuning the carb to the car, Which is also a nice fun experience of reading the vacuum to get a proper tune. with the right spark advance and adjusting the carb to get the most out of it. Also adjusting the carb for what your expecting it to do. a big difference from a 70s vet and a three quarter ton k25 in how you have to jet and stage it.
Your ability to win friends and influence people is uncanny. What event in your messed up life has caused you to feel the need to continually insult others? That’s about all I see you do here.
Missouri: Psychologists say such a person was very likely abused by a close relative at a very young age. Donno, if–am just repeating what I was taught. niio
you must really be one of those Karen types who gets upset when they don’t like to hear the truth
Charl M, what are your thoughts about protecting your existing vehicle by installing an EMP Shield? https://www.empshield.com/
I have no connection with the company, but I have installed these military-tested devices on my home’s electrical panel and on my 2 vehicles. They are essentially military-grade surge protectors.
well its a neat scam….. the emp shield will suck your money and when the emp hits….. what you going to do sue em when it doesn’t work ?
Most modern cars will be ok…. from a emp
For some of those older cars/trucks, the gas milage is worth looking at. I just had a high schooler visiting me yesterday with his ’76 F150. As he was delivering some packages for me at a great distance, it became very apparent just how many fill-ups he would need and how often. I had heard that non-ethanol higher octane gas is more efficient and thus need fewer fill-ups so I suggested that he fill up that type but I really don’t know if it’s valid information.
I watched a video show-casing some backwoods red-neck knowledge. Two guys adapted their gas engine into a working steam engine. It was big and bulky and used up much of the truck bed but it did make the truck go.
I used to have a ’96 Volvo wagon. It had the best turning radius of any vehicle I have had. That thing could seriously move when I stomped on the gas but it was at 8 miles to the gal. That car had endless interior space as I slept in it very comfortably along with my child and a big ol’ furry collie.
Here we go again. This topic has been beaten to death. Search through the archives and you will see how many times it has been covered.
If you would like to read a well thought-out article about the effects of an EMP on motor vehicles, go on line and search future science.com and read the monograph by Jerry Emanuelson, BSEE.
I grew up on the era of 30s and 40s automobiles. From 1941 through 1946 there were no civilian motor vehicles manufactured. It was called World War 2.
My first car was a 1937 two-door Chevy sedan. My second car was a 1947 Studebaker Landcrusier. I challenge anyone who thinks there were cars that got 100 mpg during that era to name the make and model of those miracle cars.
Has anyone priced an early edition TransAm? Of course, depending on your income status it may be that you think the price of an early edition TransAm is chump change. As for the rest of us, spending the cost of such a vehicle would probably mean that we would wind up sleeping in it and holding up a sign saying, “Will work for food.” for our food.
Much as I hate to admit, I happen to think some of Raven’s comments are on point.
An operating motor vehicle after an EMP event will be a much sought after item and the fancier the item, the more sought after. As far as racing away from some wannabe carjacker, most thinking preppers are of the reasoned opinion that streets and highways will be clogged with stalled cars and car wrecks and there won’t be very much high speed driving.
A better 4 wheel vehicle would be one with high clearance and low center of gravity. You are going to be jumping curbs and driving in the unimproved shoulder or unimproved center median. Four wheel drive would make driving in such terrain more feasible than a low slung car.
I spit my coffee reading your comment. Isn’t that the truth about this topic being dragged through the mud; coming to a stall in the fast-drying concrete. My cousin has a 1969 Trans Am, Black w/ the blue graphics on the hood and smaller decals on the sides. Of course, it has the T-tops. (haha.) I believe, it’s 1969, it could be ’70? She orginally got it from Dad as a graduation gift. I’ve seen her maintain it throughout the decades. Her father purchased it for her *brand new* for 10K. I have zero clue how much it’s worth today. She has kept it in meticulous condition. All orginal parts. Extremely low miles. Always covered and garaged. I remember, as a kid, I was able to take it out for a spin during the summer. What an experience! Now, if she wanted to ‘will’ it to me then heck yeah! Other than that… I’m good. (haha.)
Dang. She could probably get $50K for that if it’s in meticulous original condition and needs little or no restoration.
LCC: Yep, but it is fun to talk about. Glad you’re back! niio
I am looking for a link for that article by Jerry Emauelson
Just remember not all EMP’s are caused by nukes. Don’t forget the sun sends out Mass Coronal Ejections (mce) that can do as much or more damage than a nuke. One that happened 8n the mid 1800’s would have destroyed most electronic or electric things had there been any to speak of. I also read an interesting article a few yrs back about all the emo testing that was done by our govt. Seems it wasn’t as thorough as they said. Much of it was done within FEET of the electronic devices being checked and even then it didn’t kill everything. I do keep my SHTF electronics in a homemade faraday but I am not going to worry a lot about vehicles. I don’t plan on going anywhere as there is nowhere for me to go. I will “bug in”. If I die on that hill that’s OK I won’t go by myself. Anyone who tries will live (or die)to regret it. Much of this whole “what do I do when there is an emp” has to do with what one can afford. When or if I can afford an older truck I will get one just not now.
We actually had an MCE last week that hit the southern hemisphere that did cause some outages down under. And one this week (I think) coming that shouldn’t do more than make some lovely Northern Lights. Obviously, nothing like the 1859 MCE. As you point out, you need to buy the vehicle and continue maintaining it until something happens…if it does, and it isn’t something else that causes SHTF.
As West Coast Chuck said this subject has been beaten to death.
BUT as a thought to ponder, IF EMP has essentially destroyed the grid and most vehicles (which BTW is the Soviet Testing Results, they used full power emp, that’s why Military Vehicles have some hardening) WHO Much Fuel DO you Have?
After that soaks in, where pray tell do you WANT to Drive around with nasty folks EAGER to shoot and take your pretty toy? Roads going to be “Interesting Places” to roll around the wreckage.
Me? If EMP occurs and I have a few spare emergency radios in faraday cages to test that idea as Secondary EMP detonations over a few days or weeks is Soviet SOP. I’m going DARK for at least 30 days to let the crazies shoot it out.
Got WATER? That’s worth a lot of money and effort in my opinion.
So true. If you are one of the few with an operational vehicle, the teeming masses will want it, and they have guns, too. A well-placed 200-yard shot from concealment, and it’s theirs until someone does the same to them.
Your answer is right on the money, Michael.
Michael: Definitely. For weeks after, they’ll be creepy-crawlies, people who slipped over the edge. Hitler said, “I want to raise a generation of young people that will be void of a conscious, relentless, imperious, and cruel.” The liberals managed to do that. niio
Back in 1970 while in the Army I bought a dual fuel 5/4 pickup off the disposal office. If I need something that will always start and go over everything it does the job. However fuel economy is not great but will run on gas, diesel and probably even moonshine if I needed it to.
The best SHTF vehicle would be one you have access to, starts, runs, and has a full tank of gas. There are roads a plenty and mostly in good shape. I live on a road that requires 4wd but in good weather I have seen some small cars. Though the driver being drunk or stoned probably helped. I don’t plan on leaving my house, but if you want to spend big bucks on a rolling dozer, go for it I will at home. BTW, a fancy fully loaded truck going down my road is just a rolling Walmart with dead owners in the front seat
Read the article that I referenced. It will answer a lot of questions so many of you have. I know, reading technical treatise is so boooorrring! Unfortunately it is necessary if you want reliable answers
LCC: Yep. Boring is right! right until they need it, are desperate to understand it, and remember they bypassed learning it. People are like that. niio
all this is well and good, but if an emp knocks out the power grid it won’t matter what you are driving if you cannot pump the fuel. or get the fuel to the stations. or even refine the oil into fuel. i may be missing something, but that’s my thoughts for what they are worth.
To my2cents: I agree that the lack of fuel is a major consideration. That said, William Forstchen’s ONE SECOND AFTER makes it clear that getting stuck on the road in your car during an EMP attack while miles from your home can be tragic. If you are in your car and have a full tank, your ability to return home could be the difference between life and death. If you make it home safely, staying home may be the best option, even if your vehicle is operable. I agree with other commenters that driving around in one of the few vehicles on the road will make you a target.
As I mentioned before, I have invested about $300 per car to install EMP Shield devices that have been military tested to withstand an EMP attack. Is it possible I wasted $300? Of course. But is it also possible that my $300 investment may save my wife’s life if she’s on the road during an EMP attack. Is it worth $300 to potentially save my wife’s life. Damn right it is!
Blue Devil (from N Carolina perhaps?) I like your logic but the EMP Sheild is an interesting but Unproven idea. Until tested you’ll never know. As far as I Know the US Military is not using it so….
Given your full tank of fuel can I assume you’re thinking of a get home range of around 200 miles? Can I suggest a pair of folding bicycles with 20 inch wheels to ride home? I’m over 60 but I can easily ride 10+ miles per hour (FAR Better than the 1-2 miles per hour of hiking) for several hours. I did a loop ride of a bit over 90 miles this weekend, a little sore but 🙂 If I was motivated to get home I bet I could ride 200 miles in two days.
The big advantage of a bicycle is ANYWHERE you can hike I can ride. I’ve even walked my bike through swamp paths and over fences. A Bike Panner is a nice kit bag to carry water, a camo shelter, a bivvy bag and some GORP style food. GORP is Good Old Raisins and Peanuts mix. It’s my riding food along with Tylenol. 🙂
LCC mentioned the futurescience articles on EMP, one thing the author tested for EMP shielding and found fairly effective was installing continuous aluminum screen underneath the roof of a carport. Because of the curvature of the earth the most efficient place to detonate a HEMP is close to the Canadian border, so the further south you are the lower the angle from which the energy arrives, be a good idea to extend the aluminum screening down the north side.
Whole house EMP protection is designed to intercept the high voltages that build up in power lines. It’s unknown, probably known and classified, how much damage the other effects of EMP cause.
In Texas, and I imagine the rest of the South, there are thousands of shade tree mechanics who will have no trouble putting old vehicles in service after an EMP, if newer vehicles are crippled. Gas won’t be a problem until well into the second year, by then some big brain country boy will have figured out how to re-refine it.
Several people mentioned the old VW Rabbit pickups, my wife had one, a wonderfully engineered little pickup except for the two chamber high pressure cooling system leading to head failure, and the front end that self destructed if you ran over anything bigger than a kitten.
A fella down the road from me just finished rebuilding a 1966 Chevelle He went full hot rod with it, cutting out the hood and equipping it with the old mechanical supercharger and oversize chrome to hurt the eyeballs air scoop. Crazy what the semi-literate can accomplish.
Oh no, where is the moderator, lol!!
I have purchased a 1967 Chevy c10 with small block v8. Slowly rebuilding to operating and reliable condition. Has an HEI ignition and will buy extra coil and ignition module to keep in EMP proof box. I have also installed grounding straps on our everyday vehicles purchased thru Amazon. I read somewhere that the Government tested vehicles EMP survivability, and the last year models tested that passed was the 2001.
Well you should keep a few of that on hand just due to the fact the HEI setups burn out. (leave the key in the ignition by mistake and it over heats and burns out.
Just for reference. 1984 was the first year cars needed electronic ignition (a computer). 1986 all gas trucks were required to have them to meet standards. Diesel cars and trucks weren’t required to be electronic until 1988. Before these dates a carb or manual injection pump were used. Look it up, I lived it as a mechanic.
not entirely true, Gm used HEI forever in most of the trucks and full size cars. Granted its “electronic ingition but its fairly reliable and a reason why a lot of the hot rod guys converted over to it.
> Ford F100 & F250 Range of Pick-Up Trucks
> Choose a model before 1979
Unless there is a Mandela Effect I do not know about concerning Fords, if you want diesel you will be picking a model AFTER 1978 and before 1993.5 or either the 6.9L (what I would pick) or the 7.3L.
Not to beat the finer points to death, but, if you want to consider any vehicle EMP proof, then a gas engine should be a manual transmission, with points, that you know can be bumped started the 1st time, with a manual choke. Same with the diesel engine.
If you want a Ford with points, you should be looking at roughly 1974 and before. 1978 had Duraspark. I converted my small 4×4 manual transmission truck from computer controlled, to points and manual choke, then once running okay, then to duraspark II ignition (aka 1978 – 1985ish) for the better MPG and tuning. I put much quieter muffler on it too.
from dieselresource
“The 6.9L IDI diesel engine became an available option on 1983 model year trucks.”
You could get the 2.2L diesel in the early 80s Ford Rangers, but, only in 2×4.
When an EMP hits, roads will be clogged, so, I do not see much use in fast cars or huge trucks unless the trucks have off road flotation tires.
I use to be able to hear my boss’s (stock) Dodge 5.9L DRW 3500 at least a 1/4 of a mile away. Which is why I told him everyone appears to be working when he returned, but, with not much work not being done. Some employees (mostly the drunks) would sit down, then start to work once they heard him Cummings. Big diesels are not exactly a stealth vehicle.
My goal is not a big honking diesel, it is to build a small 4×4 diesel ATV like vehicle that has both electric start and manual pull start, that is easy on resources, can run on veggie oil or waste oil, and can fit more places and is a smaller target. If you have to crush corn or sunflowers for oil, you are going to need a lot of plants to feed the beast.
“If you want a Ford …”
Anyone who actually WANTS a Ford probably isn’t making the best decisions to begin with! ???
Sorry – couldn’t resist!
Missouri: True, but I live in AZ and they do well here. But they’re probably the only vehicle that cancers around here 🙂 niio
HELP. Anyone know how to turn OFF notifications for this thread on this website? I have seen enough replies to this subject already. But there is no OBVIOUS way to turn notifications off and they are driving me nuts. Thanks.
Dean: When you open the email, down near the bottom you’re asked to manage subscriptions. Hit that, then remove what you no longer want from the list. niio
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Whoever wrote this article (Charl M) is a complete idiot. You has obviously never worked on a car in your life. I’ll bet you don’t even know what a diode is…. or where on a vehicle you might find one. Start with that.. and quit writing articles full of inaccuracies.
But look at all the wonderful custom tailored ads he has here.
Since Carter Car Care was made law, vehicles are trash. I worked as guard in a junkyard and saw vehicles come in that prior to the Cafe Standards would have had years of life yet. While it’s great to get 30-40 mpg, the death rate jumped ‘way up. Each dem president made things worse, caused more deaths, and all the dems, good Nazis, said was, we can handle that. Note, no, they don’t. They drive upgraded, reinforced vehicles.
niio
i doubt it cars are made a lot safer then before. More people drive then before so thus more accidents but the cars of the 60’s are death traps compared to a modern car with crumple zones and air bags. Again the rose color glasses of thinking your 60’s impala would be invincible in a crash isn’t true. They not only speared you on the steering wheel but they did fold up oddly and crushed the passenger’s inside.
The irony that “only dem presidents is stupid…. both sides are the same bird and hate you all. We as a people need to get away from that dumbass thinking.
The best moving vehicle will be on two feet.
Carl: AKA shank’s mare. Makes my legs feel happy, as the old-times would say, to walk a while. It’s a lot easier to hide me than to hide my truck. Under shtf, be Franki9n’s lamb. He said, what is democracy? It’s 2 wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for breakfast. Democracy is a well-armed lamb. niio
Well, the 4 legged kind will be better. And they can carry more….or pull a wagon….yep, just saying.
Daniel: Very true, but ya know what Plains Indians always said of the cavalry, they sit tall and brave, and make really good targets. niio
Red I dont see anythingn like nthat at the bottom. All I see is this:
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Dean, when you do email and open one, it’s on the bottom of that. The one before you access the site. niio
I am interested in knowing if those devices that you can install in the vehicle or home to protect against an EMP attack really work because they are not inexpensive. Anyone w/ knowledge on this?
i would say they are mostly a scam
Can you help me know why please? Is there a way I could pick out a “real mMcCoy”?
there are videos about making EMP pulse and white noise generators that you can use for testing. You can nuke cellphones within a few feet using them. Try it on your car.
Also, you can basically taser a car as an experiment. 20 or so years ago it was not uncommon for even cellphones to cause problems, including non-start problems, with the vehicles they were within.
Do yourself a favor, do not get any car with GM’s passlock security system and I would not exactly rush out and buy any vehicle with their CCC system (1981 onward) either.
Both Ford and GM lost their TFI class action lawsuits, so, you might want to avoid any ignition using their modules.
there isn’t a item you can buy….. in theory you can park a x car inside a feraday cage and it would be fine… minus that you would need all the spare parts to go with it as well for repairs (tires tooo)
however the EMP studyies are not that exact on what happens. Your’re better off getting a GM or Dodge Truck mid 90s to 2015 ish era……. Parts are in every single napa and you the avg person should be able to fix it.
Not a single vehicle in this list would survive an EMP. EMP is a broadband pulse, so it is arguable that an EMP from a nuclear burst wouldn’t pass right through any faraday cage other than a solid metal box of significant thickness. Of course the distance would effect the strength of the pulse and thus the required blocking needed. Also right angles towards the EMP act as an antenna of sorts – so vertical edges of say something like a safe would actually attenuate the pulse.
Anything with electronic ANYTHING will be effected, since this effects PNP/NPN transistor junctions and other similar devices, the smaller they are the more effected they are since they normal use less energy and this is an overload – which means ALL recharging systems via alternators won’t work. Unless you remove the alternator and put it in a faraday cage. OR, if you have a old vehicle with the regulator separately – remove that into a faraday cage.
The only vehicles that won’t be effected are ones that have mechanical charging systems “Generators” with mechanical parts only – so prior to roughly 1964.
I can’t speak to diesel engines on this since I am not familiar with the charging system on those.
The other thing is that if I were en enemy and did this, I would wait 24 hours and set off another pulse – long enough for those things that were protected that have now come out into the open – an destroy them too. LED flashlights, radios, everything would die.
That is the reason I invested in older style and relatively weak beam Mag lights. PLUS, tons of extra bulbs. I try to keep solar chargers and spare rechargeable AA and AAA in Faraday cages along with both the mag lights and LED lights. Batteries themselves carry a resistor insider, I do not know how to test a battery against a EMP or noise generator. I only am opening the cans to test and rotate equipment. I keep enough Mag lites (3) outside, so I would not need them in an emergency.
Older Ford alternators use an external voltage regular and the older voltage regulators do not use electronics. The alternator sore spot is the rectifier and zener diode.
In the FWIW category, I plan on getting a pull start diesel for an ATV and a generator for it, not an alternator.
Standard batteries are not effected by EMP, so AAA, AA, and C,D, etc. They don’t have a resistor in them. However, battery packs most certainly do, so those recharge packs they have, solar ones and other – would die. It’s not the actual battery that dies – an 18650 battery which most use won’t be effected. It’s the temperature diode and the charging board inside those devices that use the 18650 that are effected. That battery by the way is a 4.20 max volt battery which can supply a good amount of amperage. I also believe they use smaller packs all put together into one large battery pack to run most electric cars right now.
They are a great battery. So – if you had a flashlight that has 3 “D” size cells that add up to 4.5 volts in series, technically you could use one 18650 in place of it if you needed to jury rig something. There is a whole aftermarket of People salvaging those batteries from dead computer battery packs – they use that size too. In many cases just one battery dies leaving all the others useful.
Remember, in a pinch you can make a battery out of potatoes if you remember your high school physics class. There are may other ways to do so using dissimilar metals and acidic fluids from plants/trees like tomatoes or oranges. They have found in Egyptian burial sites what appear to be containers wired together, many believe they understand and knew how to produce electricity all the way back then, for what I don’t know.
Kudos for understanding that filament type flashlights aren’t effected nor the old style house light-bulb, of course 120v would be a bit hard to come by – unless you have #10-12 volt car batteries that still work. Wire them in series.
where and what model has a pull start diesle atv setup ? Curious why not just gas.
the prepper fear of a emp vs the reality your facing a slow economic collaspe is cute…. but i guess we all have our blinders towards something.
Good comments on this thread, but I haven’t seen anything about first gen Dodge Cummins 3/4 ton trucks. They have a small computer beside the battery. I remember reading about swapping it out for a voltage regulator. Does anyone know about this? These trucks are really tractors that just look like trucks, and very easy to find. First gen is from 1989 to 1993.
like most things you would be fine…
that would be a good start as its mostly a mechical setup and not really anything else. the miliitary used to be that way until the eniviromental people got a hold of the army. now everything is a complex very heavy computer system.
Garage sized faraday cage, never take vehicle out for long/ever nuff said, done, what’s for dinner.
I just would like to say I’m a little of an Fbody enthusiast. You say the trans am is a good car however only if it’s not the TPI version of the car. Those require a computer to run that can be damaged by an EMP.
“Choose a model before 1979. You should have no trouble finding a diesel.” Really! Try again…the F100 never had a diesel, and the F250 did not have one until somewhere in the 1982 – 83 builds. Even then it was the Ford – International 6.9 or 7.3 without turbo. Still they were good engines, and in the early years had a small mechanical injection pump…later electric with an ECM between the inner and outer right fender.
As to ideal vehicles, what ever that is, the topic is like bringing up the argument of which is better; 9mm or 45 acp in a handgun. I will qualify my next statement with IMO. Choices would be a rust-free 80 or 90s Ford or Dodge with a mechanical fuel injected engine. Similar variations in gas but closer to the writer’s time frame of 79-ISH using the older distributor/rotor bug setups. Further any such vehicle you will benefit if their were produced in really high numbers [for spare parts or “donor” vehicles]. You also need to stay with that particular make/model and get a crap-load of spare parts…and the know how to repair them. This goes WELL beyond changing the oil. The ability to replace fuel injectors and seats and even to “rebuild” them.
Personally I go a bit larger using the older F600 having the 6.6 Ford/New Holland or 5.9 Cummins [mid 90’s] with their completely mechanical fuel pumps. Yes, they made them in 4×4 but they are rare. The Marmon Herrington conversion in the F700 or 80’s F450 were great but extremely rare…which means parts will be even rarer. The F600 I believe were completely Ford, but I would have to check again to make sure. Does this mean I think these are the best? Hell no, it’s just what I have and will stick with rather than switching around. DO WHAT IS BEST FOR YOU…BUT GIVE IT HONEST THOUGHT. Then starting going through it YOURSELF…NOT someone else. If you don’t know how to do it, find someone who does and work with them.
Sadly, i have informed several on this forum about years and electronics. The BEST option for most people is to buy and install an EMP shielding deivice. empshield.com. They’re about $400, but occasionally have coupons that cut em down into the mid 300s. A good company and have sold a bunch of their products to everybodys favorite Uncle, Sam. They have 3 wires and are not difficult to hook up. With most modern vehicles it takes longer find a good solid mounting point than it does to wire it up. With this module you can use ANY vehicle and still be rolling after an EMP event. Keeping in mind that being one of the very few with a running vehicle WILL make you an instant target for those of the carjacking mindset and that will be a large number as desperation sets in. Buying and installing this device is VASTLY cheaper and quicker than buying an older vehicle or assembling a very large collection of spare electronic parts for your modern vehicle. BUT, if you ARE looking to buy an older non-electronic ignition/computer controlled vehicle, the following guidelines will be helpful. ALL General Motors cars and trucks had electronic ignition from 1974 on up, started into computer systems in 1980 and computer controlled fuel injection started in either 86 or 88. But what we are interested in here is point ignition. Mopar started electronic ignition in 72 i think, Ford started in 73 or 74. If a person is wondering about a specific vehicle they may be interested in buying, go to rockauto.com and look up ignition system parts for it. Easy to use catalog, lots of good pics so you can actually see what part you are getting. I’ve been in the parts and repair business for 35 years roughly and still do all my own vehicle repairs except tires, windshields and alignments. I have at least a clue about this stuff, lol. Have a good one!
How often do you see a modern car that has a diesel motor? Or one that’s original motor is a diesel? If you live in a large city; how easy is it to obtain diesel fuel?